First, let's educate you on your grays. When and how much you gray is genetic. A gray hair happens when a hair sheds from its follicle and grows back without pigment, also known as melanin. Everybody sheds hair whether they are graying or not. Most people lose 50-100 hairs a day. If you are starting to gray, don't worry, all those hairs that you shed shouldn't grow back gray. However, some women who gray rapidly around their face will notice their hair thinning out ; It will thicken back up when the grays grow in and get some length.
Now, to decide what to do with that salt in your pepper! Some women avoid coloring because of maintenance. What they don't realize is that hair that is more than 60% gray requires special care. Not as much care as, say, going to the salon every 4-6 weeks for color touch ups, but care nonetheless. Here are some options for you if you are.....
5%-20% gray
- A few foils or highlights can disguise this small percentage easily.
- Also you can have your stylist put some demi-permanent color JUST ON THE GRAY SPOTS if you want to get away with not spending a lot.
- If you decide to do nothing to camoflauge the small percentage of grays, don't worry. You are not alone. Many women these days are embracing their grays. There is no extra maintenance for them with this small percentage.
25%-45% gray
- As you get above 20 percent gray, that is when you would need to do an all over color for coverage. I advise going with permanent or DEMI permanent color. Semi permanents and vegetable dyes (henna, etc.) can leave you with some scary and unnatural pigments when you have this much gray.
- Foils are still going to look great with this percentage. If you love blonde highlights, try having some lowlights and highlights together. They should blend the gray pretty well.
- Still want to stay au natural? Keep a clarifying shampoo handy to keep the gray hairs from picking up pigments from chlorine water, hard water, products, etc. Also, gray hairs tend to be a bit coarser and harder to style sometimes, so make sure you have a haircut and styling regime that works with your lifestyle while still looking fabulous.
50% and beyond
- All-over single process permanent colors will need to be reformulated. Unless you are naturally blonde, I advise against them. Thay can look very unnatural. They usually start off looking good, and fade to some scary tints after a few weeks. They also are getting re-touched so often, that the color gets monotone and flat. With my clients that have this much gray, I color them and add a few foils while they are processing. The dimension they get allows the haircolor to look less harsh and more natural. The foils don't have to be blonde; a color just slightly lighter than what you are using to color with will give the dimension you need.
- Women that get highlights regularly, I still highlight. I just color their roots back to their natural pigment, and then go ahead and do the regular highlights I always had done previously.
- Want to keep that silver? Go ahead, it's beautiful. If you want to make it your trademark look, make sure you go through your closet and makeup. Colors that flattered you before may not anymore. Same goes for makeup. You may need to invest in a new palette of hues for both. Alternate using a clarifying and violet-pigmented shampoo. Also, make sure your conditioner and hair products do not contain dyes. Keep you ends freshly trimmed and learn to style your new texture and color of hair.
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